A. Motoring and Docking
Motoring and docking are closely related, since sailboats motor in to dock with sails lowered.

And since docking is aided by motor power, develop the initial motoring skills in the clear, away from tight spaces such as dock slips--see Motoring in General below.

1. Docking.
Overview: use critical lines and the motor to move the boat along the slip's windward side to and from the dock. 

Main types of docks: floating and fixed piling.
Slip positions: inside and alongside the end.

 In the typical inside slip position, boats are tied up with bow and stern docking lines permanently attached to the dock and its pilings at each corner of the slip.

In alongside slip positions, spring lines replace outside lines. The free ends of dock lines, sometimes ending in a loop, are tied to boat cleats with cleating knots.

If the wind is from the side of the slip, any adjoining windward pair of "critical" docking lines primarily constrain the boat as it's pushed by the wind.

If the wind is from the corner quarter of the slip, one critical line effectively holds the boat alongside the slip toward the slip's leeward side, until constrained by the leeward lines.

This method simplifies the departure and approach by removing or ignoring slack lines and utilizing the critical lines.

Also, use the windward side of the slip space to advantage to move the boat safely in/out of slip.

Note obstacles such as the location of other boats, special dock elements and the protrusion of the boat's bow pulpit.

Develop a plan and tell crew. Plan for what will happen next in event of failure.

Assign crew to handle these critical lines, giving verbal commands to, first "stand by," then "cast off" and "fend off."

2. Moving the Boat Without Motor Power. Use critical lines under wind power to control boat. A line pulling from bow or stern will make the boat lay along that side of the slip. A line pulling from past the beam will kick out that end of the boat.

Gauge wind strength versus boat mass to determine need for mechanical advantage from wrapping cleat (or even winch) once or twice to hold the boat.

Use a slip line, i.e. a line free of knots running around a piling and held by both ends or with one end tied to a cleat), to make sure the line is slipped free after use and taken with the boat.

Walking the boat using a piling is the simplest way to move a boat along a slip. A boat with a tiller may be "sculled" for the last bit of distance needed.

Noting effect on rest of boat when taking action, i.e. creating versus solving problems.

3. Motoring Out.
Before leaving the dock, be prepared: have the boat ready for hoisting sails in case motor fails or other emergency. And have a throwable flotation cushion in the cockpit.

It's very important to use low speeds around docks.

Use short bursts of the throttle to reach a low speed plateau, rather than continual acceleration, so the boat's bow pulpit doesn't pass the last piling at too high a speed.

Have boathooks ready at all times when docking. Use fenders as needed.

Stabilizing the situation v. increased oscillation: don't pull the boat too hard in one direction, then overcorrect back the other way.

4. Motoring in General.
 Emphasize throttling down to idle when shifting to forward or reverse.

Use short bursts of the throttle to move the boat, especially to achieve a critical point against the wind. Be able to stop the boat and make stationary relative to the wind.

Note the handling characteristics of particular boat, especially when backing--many sailboats tend to "prop walk" or move its stern to the port side due to the usual "right-handed" prop mounting.

Note the tendency of the wind to swing the bow more than the stern and the stability gained from backing directly into the eye of the wind.

Use the port "prop walk" and wind-driven bow swing, coupled with both forward and reverse gears, to make tight turns.

Determine the momentum needed to gain steerage responsiveness at the helm in terms of required distance versus searoom available, thus it's best to avoid leeward pockets, out of which backing is the only option.

Use sheltered areas to advantage, such as the wind "shadow" of a building or dock.

5. Motoring In.
Note the overriding importance of whether the wind is "driving" in or out of the dock.

If the wind is coming from the slip, assign crew to use a boathook to pick up the windward critical line in the dockside end of the slip.

If the wind to blowing into the slip, come in at that angle with the engine in reverse at a speed to slow the boat. Pick up the critical line at windward outside piling.

At a slip bare of dock lines, come alongside the windward outside piling and quickly tie to it with a line with a round-and-two-half-hitches knot.

The boat may then be motored, against the wind if necessary, and held along that side of the slip, when this windward line is cleated before the beam. Before entering the slip, cleat the line and stand by with sufficient free end running clear of boat obstructions.

Use neutral as "storage" gear when motor on while helmsman does a particular task.

Practice the docking plan in open water and plan for failure by accessing the consequences and what to do next in that event.

B. Raising & Lowering Sails
The most important consideration when raising and lowering sails is plotting a course that allows for completion of the procedure, while allowing additional searoom for mishaps in case something goes wrong.

Also, "not being overpowered" is crucial in terms of sail selection, i.e. reefing the main and reducing the jib, or even using a storm jib and/or bare poles.

Moreover, due to the possibility of being overpowered, it is very important to be able to get the mainsail down quickly in an emergency, since the mailsail is held at two sides, and when caught by strong wind, the control of the boat is taken as well.

Note that a sailboat's helm is generally balanced so the boat points into the wind when the sails are luffing (called being "in irons").

Sail selection must be cognizant of boat balance, e.g. a reefed mainsail may not be enough to make a boat come about if coupled with a full genoa foresail.

Before beginning, analyze the situation for likely problems. Practice good seamanship by examining the halyard's control pathway for encumbrances. Have a winch handle handy in case needed.

Position the topping lift to hold the boom high enough when mainsail is down, but low enough not to interfere when mainsail is up. Once so positioned, the topping lift can be left in place permanently.

1. Preparing Sails for Hoisting.
The mainsail halyard's shackle, in particular, must be attached with great care--don't lose the mainsail halyard upward, it cannot be easily retrieved.

Check halyards for fouling and, once attached to the mainsail, secure the halyard with a bungee or otherwise.

2. Hoisting Mainsail and Jib.
The conventional method is to point and motor into the eye of the wind until the mainsail is raised, and then the jib.

Sometimes it is necessary to winch the mainsail to the very top for a good sail shape.

On some boats the halyard leads back to the cockpit where stops are provided to secure the halyard. Otherwise, the halyard is secured on a mast cleat where it is raised.

An alternative method is to raise the jib first and sail on the jib while raising the main. This is essentially the same method used as when jiffy reefing--the main is let out to where it luffs freely before being raised.

In cases where the boat has good weather helm and in light to moderate winds, another method is to raise sails in place while the boat sits pointed into the wind.

3. Lowering Mainsail and Jib.
As mentioned, to prevent being overpowered, be able to take the main down quickly.

The most likely problem is the halyard failing to run free from an uncoiled line or a line running from the bottom, not top, of a coiled line.

Plan so the boat lays over to allow working room on the desirable side of the top of the cabin. Have the hatch closed.

Have a sailtie stuffed in your belt or otherwise.

Practice quickly pulling the mainsail down, knocking any wind out of it, and rolling the mainsail inside itself from single position and securing it on top of the boom with a single sailtie.

The procedure for lowering sails is basically the reverse of hoisting.

Note that a jib can often be lowered with the sheet tight to prevent the sail from going overboard. In light air, the jib can even be lowered when running.

4. Reefing Main.
Learn how to reef quickly and effectively before need arises.

The procedure is the same as previously described:  point and motor into the wind or sail close-hauled on jib while luffing main.

Drop the main halyard past the reefing point.

Tighten the jiffy reefing line (or tie leech reefing cringle down and back with a line).

Some boats: take out sail slides, reset stop and/or attach luff cringle to reefing hook

Re-hoist main halyard.

In a storm, the main can be dropped entirely and the boat "sailed" on bare poles.

Also, a storm jib may be used in strong wind.

Practice the use of safety harness (used in cockpit on transits at night or in storms) and jack lines, especially to go on foredeck in bad weather to change jib.

C. Pure Sailing Pure sailing itself is a small, but essential, part of the overall operation of the sailboat.

1. Sailing as a Series of Control Stages. Due to the dynamic nature of the sea and the sails, control must be maintained on a sailboat by going from one control stage to the next.

It's fundamental that sailing courses are plotted, and sails are set in relation to the eye of wind, and a given course, called a point of sail, must be maintained.

The eye of the wind is the true wind; apparent wind is experienced and determined by vectoring forward by the boat`s own speed-created wind.

There are two basic directions: into the wind (called variously close-hauled, tacking, beating, close-reaching) and going with the wind (called running and broad reaching).

The boat cannot sail in a no-tack sector of about 90° directly into the wind, of which about 45° lies on each side of the wind.

The points of sail are close-hauled, close-reach, beam reach, broad reach and running.

2. Changing Course. A course can be changed while the sail is kept on the same side between running directly downwind and close-hauled until the "no tack" zone is reached at about 45° off the wind.

Use a beam reach approach in a confined areas for maximum maneuverability without having to change course, i.e. bring sail over to the other side of the boat.

When the sail must be moved to the other side of the boat, a course change involves either coming about where the bow goes through the eye of the wind or gybing where the stern goes through the eye of the wind.

Coming about-bow comes through the eye of the wind

Coming about commands/sequence:
captain-"ready to come about"
crew: "ready" (attends jib sheets)
captain: "hard alee" (moves tiller/wheel over)
crew: (releases jib sheet on drawing side and pulls in and tightens up on new side)

Jybing-stern moves through the eye of the wind

Jybing commands/sequence:
captain-"ready to gybe"
crew: "ready" (attends jib sheets)
captain: "gybe oh" (moves tiller/wheel over)
crew: (releases jib sheet on drawing side and pulls over to new side)

Exercises:

Figure 8 exercise-understanding points of sail

Circle exercise-understanding close-hauled v. running

Series of quick tacks & jibes-confidence at the tiller

3. Safety Issues.

Danger of Accidental Gybe

Danger when boom on same quarter as wind

Keeping out of boom path

Use of preventer

Centering main while keeping same relation to eye of wind

Danger of Accidental Tack. The accidental tack offers the best practical illustration, here in a negative situation, of boat balance.

Since a boat is balanced front-to-back at its center of effort, the effect of a puff causes the boat to heel over, this shifting the center of effort backward toward, and favoring, the mainsail--with the result that the mainsail pulls the boat around its center of effort on that side abruptly up into the wind.

The momentum often results in a back-winded jib and dramatic change of direction into any oncoming traffic.

In such situations, it is important to be vigilant of oncoming traffic

The solution is to immediately correct the helm by quickly letting out the mainsail and dispelling any increased force.

If the boat come up, quickly release the jib sheet to prevent a back-winded jib and its effects.

If the boat comes about, remember that there's the choice of coming up or completing a 360' turn.

Night or Storm Sailing

Use harnesses, tethers and jacklines for sailing at night or in stormy weather to avoid falling overboard.

Use a long tether for the cockpit with a jack line fitted athwartships so as not to be underfoot when clipping in.

Use a short tether for forward work; a long tether may result in being dragged underwater in the event of a fall.

Tethers should attach to the harness D-ring with heavy duty carabiners to allow de-coupling in emergency

Jack lines should be made of strong, flat nylon webbing since line tends to roll underfoot.

Test your safety system in benign conditions.

4. The Captain`s Overview.

Helmsman`s 3 fold job-monitoring helm, traffic & depth

Balancing the helm

Steering by mainsheet with helm tied down

Release mainsheet if puff (temporary overpowering) threatens accidental tack

Single handing exercise-the captain does it all

D. Right of Way & "Driving" a Boat Safely

1. Rules of Road: Who has the right of way? The boat with the right of way is called the "stand-on" boat and the boat without the right of way is called the "give-way" boat.

Large Ships Over Recreational Boats. Large ships have the right of way over recreational boats. A large ship is also generally constained by a channel. Constrained as well as uncommanded, and fishing (except trolling) boats have the right of way.

Overtaken Over Overtaking. The overtaken boat has the right of way over a boat that is overtaking it. The direction must be less than 22 1/2' abaft beam or its a crossing situation. At night, a sailboat's rear white 135' stern light demarks the overtaking sector.

Head On Situations. Each stays on the right like cars do.

Crossing Situations. Where both are motor boats, the boat on the right has the right of way, like cars at an unmarked intersection. When a sailboat has its sails down, the rules apply as if it were a motor boat.

Sail over Motor. Sailboats with sails up have the right of way over motor boats in crossing situations.

Starboard Over Port. Where both boats are under sail, the boat on a starboard tack has the right of way over a boat on the port tack. A boat on a starboard tack has the wind coming over its starboard side with the sails to the opposite side. When running, the tack is determined by the boom position, i.e. if the boom is over the port side, then it is assumed that the wind is coming over the starboard side and the boat is on a starboard tack.

Leeward over Windward. When both boats under sail are on same tack, then the leeward or downwind boat has the right of way.

Right of Way Pattern. When looking directly into the eye of the wind along a line, where boats under sail are crossing toward the line, the boats on the starboard side of the line have the right of way over those on the port side of the line. On each side, the leeward boat (usually close-hauled) has the right of way over the windward boat (usually running). When plotting a course at a potential crossing situation, such as an entrance area, draw an imaginary "eye of the wind" line and determine the right of way pattern to help choose the best course.

2. Safe driving

Using "lanes"

Avoiding accidental tacking

Giving a clear sign when "stand-on"

Heading for other boat`s stern when "give- way" in crossing situations

Announce rule when close

Decrease own boat speed when overtaking too fast

Keep watch under deck-sweeping foresail

Collision course when other boat seen on constant heading over time, i.e one o'clock

3. Night Lights.

A boat's required night lights indicate direction of travel at night as well as the size/type of boat and/or activity.

The boat is basically a moving lighthouse sending out to others in vicinity right of way and other safety information.

 Note the basic patterns below:

A 360° light, of course, can be seen all around, thus usually mounted high, such as a sailboat's anchoring light (360° white at top of mast).

To separate front from back, the boat is split into sectors at 22 1/2° abaft beam for crossing/overtaking right of way indicator--135° +225° = 360°, e.g. 135° stern light + 225° running lights or 225° steaming light

To indicate the stern, a 135° white light is mounted on the stern.

To indicate a power/motor boat underway, a steaming light, i.e. a 225° white light is mounted high (1/2 up mast on sailboat).

To indicate the sides of the boat as seen from the front and sides, sectors are created by splitting the boat at the bow (0°) and at the boat's right-of-way crossing zone on sides (22.5° abaft beam), by mounting on the boat's sides red and green 112.5° (225° /2) colored lights, called running lights.

Running lights: green 112.5° on starboard, red on port--sector seen from head on to 22 1/2° abaft beam on each side.

a. Sailboat Lights.

Running lights: green on starboard, red on port

From head on to 22 1/2' abaft beam on each side

Coupled with 135° white light on stern

Steaming light-white light (225° from front) halfway up mast when under power

Anchor light-360'white light at top of mast

b. Power boats-in addition to running lights above

Smaller power boats have 360° white light mounted on spar toward the stern

Larger power boats over 39' have steaming light 320°  white light on masthead coupled with a 135° white stern light

c. Other

Fishing boat--in addition of powerboat requirements when under way, fishing boats have red above white vertical 360°  lights; trawling: green over white.

Dredge and other constrained boats--2 vertical 360° red.

Towing/tugging-in addition to running lights, 2 vertical white 225° steaming lights (3 if tow over 200 meters), plus 135°  yellow towing light above stern light (2 if alongside); barge pushed in front or alongside have flashing 225° yellow steaming light; barges also have usual running and stern lights.

Police boat-360° flashing blue light

Large ships have 2 strong white range lights with the lower in front, seen from front and sides, but not stern..

d. Interpretation

Large ships and towed barges move extremely fast, so anytime two vertical white lights are seen, move quickly to the side. If then, yellow is seen past the crossing sector, do not cross behind until absolutely clear.

White light only indicates stern of overtaken boat; give way as overtaking boat

Both green & red indicate head-on; bear off to starboard and pass on port side

A green light indicates a crossing boat from the port side of the wind when tacking, you have right-of-way

A red light indicates a crossing boat from the starboard side of the wind when tacking, they have right-of-way

A red or green light only indicates a sailboat under sail; a power boat will also show white

If in doubt, give other boat plenty of room

E. Anchoring and Mooring.

1. Anchoring.

a. Types of Anchors.

Danforth (tradename for common lightweight) is a burying anchor with two broad flukes that have great holding power in mud, sand, clay and gravel, but poor in weeds and rock or under change of direction-- a good, all around for small craft and second day anchor, light and stores very flat, but not good on a bow roller.

Plow anchor (most popular version is called CQR for its manufacturer) is heavier than a Danforth, its extra weight helping it hold better in weeds and kelp, and is also better at digging in again when direction changes.

Bruce is winged plow, fairly new and popular first developed for oil drilling platforms, fairly light, re-digs on change of direction, good on bow roller, at short scope in crowded anchorage and in most ground, except loose rocks and under a heavy load.

Delta is another plow anchor variant (without the hinge), but lighter and good on a bow roller, with a good wide ground range, but not large rocks and a heavy load.

Anchoring procedure:

Cruise slowly through anchorage once to check out. See the overall pattern and where the empty slots are located.

Do not anchor in channel.

If in crowded anchorage, ask adjacent boats their scope & put out same scope

Scope = depth of water (including freeboard) x length of anchor rode

Determine scope to be used and measure rode length required ahead & cleat off rode at that point.

String rode so it goes directly from chock to anchor.

Can string anchor to be dropped directly from cockpit

Dropping anchor

Determine anchor drop point, approach from leeward

Drop anchor slowly rather than throwing

For Danforth anchor, orient so flukes will dig in

Let wind or motor move boat slowly backwards

Feed out rode slowly while keeping rode tight

Set anchor by powering up against rode

Raising anchor

Have motor on

Pull up by hand, or use motor, to pull rode & boat up to drop point

Recleat anchor at drop point & motor over anchor, if needed to break anchor free

Clean anchor by dipping over the side or cleaning with long handled brush and bucket as coming up & on deck

Secure anchor & rode as unsecured anchor may shift on deck & rode may go overboard to foul prop

2. Mooring.
Approach from downwind. Shorten the dinghy painter. Chose a mooring with a like monohull boat due to general swing characteristics.

Make sure the boat doesn't run over the mooring so as to foul the propeller with the pendant line.

Use boathook to pick up pennant. Attach pennant end loop to cleat.

When approaching, plan for the bow to fall off in the wind to a general direction. Plan that approach with the boat's "prop walk" and bow swing characteristics used to maximize effective time to pick up the pennant.

Also useful, make a large bowline, slip boating hook in knot, crew hangs over shroud, holds loop open, catches pennant or mooring chain if pennant is missing.

Put easily released slipline through eye and secure to bow cleat.